Gastro: Bar Central


Posted August 11, 2015 in Food & Drink, More

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Lunch at Bar Central: Golden opulence and hefty helpings

Right underneath an outdoor light fixture on one of Birger Jarlsgatan’s facades sits a little white enamel plate. On a dotted line, below the Pilsner Urquell logo, a blue marker has been used to put down a date. To everyone in the know, this date is a special one. It marks the arrival of yet another fresh, unpasteurised tank of golden goodness, delivered directly from the brewery in the Czech Republic.

Bar Central is a so-called *tankovna*, a tank bar. Instead of being dispensed from barrels, the beer is pumped directly into large on-site tanks. In this case, they take the form of two horizontal 500 litre stainless steel tanks that, with the addition of a countertop, doubles as a bar. For obvious reasons, these impressive vessels are allowed all the glory, placed centre stage right in the middle of the restaurant.

Although I had only intended to grab lunch, I decide I can’t *not* order myself a little beer. With the thought of the slightly sweet, somewhat malty beverage reaching the tip of my tongue, it just feels like the right thing to do. Accompanied by two delicious mini langós (145 kronor), topped with Galovic salami, gruyere and truffle cheese, and herb crème fraiche, the beer’s honey nut flavour emerges to the fullest extent.

Following the success of Bar Central in Södermalm, this is restaurateur Robert Rudinski’s second location. Design office Uglycute was once again brought in to create the stunning interior. Customers familiar with the concept will recognize the deep green colour used throughout the interior from Bar Central’s other location at Skånegatan 83, as well as the zigzag floor pattern, that has been reused and applied in the ceiling at this particular venue.

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Another familiar point of reference is the menu, which features a number of classic dishes inspired by the Central and Eastern European cuisines. The ‘house style’ wienerschnitzel (235 kronor) is a commanding piece of veal that almost reaches across the entire diameter of the large plate. It is served on its lonesome on the plate, accompanied by a number of sides – a deep plate of fries, a small bowl of anchovy and caper butter, and a large mixed salad. The schnitzel is a meal fit for a champion, and the very best of the lot. A close second is the *pörkölt* (195 kronor), a traditional Hungarian meat stew with a base of sweet paprika, served with a large serving of starchy *spätzle* (German pasta). The *polskie pierogi* (195 kronor) is not quite as amusing as its name suggests. The polish dumplings are, despite aromatic fillings such as mushrooms, sauerkraut and crispy bacon, a little bit doughy and flavourless. At Bar Central, you don’t have to worry about leaving thirsty or hungry – not even if you’re an Eastern European wrestler.

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Bar Central | Birger Jarlsgatan 41 | 08-20 10 08 | barcentral.se

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