In Vino Päritas
My stag party dinner was held in the 114-year-old cave of Wasahof, a wine cellar that also holds treasures from the end of the 19th century and bottles from some of the most prestigious Chateaus of Bordeaux among its vintages to die for. Unfortunately I don’t recall what I drank that night; however, I know it was very, very good and there was plenty of it.
Ever since I moved to Stockholm and was introduced to Wasahof by my dear friend and artist colleague Marcel Strüwer, it has been a favoured watering hole for me, with its bacchanalian vibes of wine, food and quality entertainment. Since my very first visit, one person has made me drink well and put a smile on my face every time – a tall, gentle man with an accent from the broadest fields of southern Sweden and with an appetite for the good things in life. He is waiter Frederic Grahn.
When I visit the family-run restaurant for a talk with Frederic, long-time owner Lennart Holmberg is hanging around and eager to share some good stories about the past as he walks us down the stairs to open the door to the cellar. His many visits to Château Lafite Rothschild have left him with a remarkable collection of vintages from the world-famous wine estate. As we lurk among the spiders web and stacked bottles Frederic points at a few other rare finds in the cellar, a couple of Château d’Yquem from the 40s and 50s.
Fredric himself loves fresh, clear Grüner Veltliners, and on the few nights out I have spent with him, I have hardly ever seen him with a beer in his hand. Although it is not his responsibility at Wasahof, wine is most definitely his thing. Chief sommelier and co-owner Patrik Cornelius presides over that particular domain, and is also the main man behind the widely appreciated wine tastings in the cellar.
Le Bistro de Wasahof, situated beautifully with a view over Vasaparken at the classic address of Dalagatan 46 address (where writer Astrid Lindgren lived for many years and died in 2002) is one of the oldest still-running establishments in Stockholm. The restaurant has been open since 1899 and with the Holmberg-Cornelius family at the helm since 1968. The widely-popular Bistro has a menu inspired by French cuisine and with seafood as a speciality, and where wine naturally plays a solid part.
The wine tastings, *Vinprovning Stockholm*, can be booked in advance and monthly schedules of different themes are available for to the general public. With themes like ”Four French Wines versus Four French Cheeses”, ”Bordeaux – Red, White and Sweet” and ”Famous Wines of Spain” there is always something for everyone, and with its rare antique interior, jazz evenings and opera nights, a night here will take you back in time for a unique experience. The young hipsters congregate in the neighbouring side bar *Musslan*, with popular music and cocktails, while the culturally-aware are sticking to the old school. Frederic is normally busy running between the tables, chatting, smiling, having fun at work, but today we get a chance to sit down for a small chat. I’m curious about his relation to Wasahof and his love for wine.
When did you start working at Wasahof and what is your main task?
I started working at Wasahof in 1999 and my position is head waiter.
What did you do before starting here?
Before Wasahof I was employed in the art business by an art dealer as *sällskapspudel*, a companion to potential art buyers. I also studied dramaturgy and film, I worked as a sushi delivery boy in the early 90s, when sushi was new in Stockholm, really expensive and hip, and I did catering for private parties as well as waiting at various restaurants before finding my “home” at Wasahof”.
Of all the wines you have tasted at Wasahof, which one is you all time favourite?
My all time favourites at Wasahof are probably Chateau d’Yquem 1983 and Cristal Champagne 1996.
What is are your favourite wines today, both privately and from Washof’s wine list?
It is difficult to name one favourite, but a couple of glasses from Domäne Wachau (Grüner Veltliner) will be enjoyed this summer. My favourite on Wasahof’s wine list right now is of course our house champagne from Pierre Vaudon.
Do you store/collect any wine and if so, what is your top bottle?
I don’t have a wine cellar but I have a few rarities in my closet, such as three bottles of Silex 2007.
Where do you like to drink wine?
One of my absolute favorite places to go is the restaurant De Ville on Roslagsgatan. I often sit there with my former colleague and wine enthusiast Anna Rönmark, being served by Mister Henke in the bar.
What is the best combination of food and wine for you?
A great pairing in my opinion is a glass of chilled Sancerre rosé with half a lobster, preferably eaten outside in the Swedish summer evening.
Any recommendation to our readers what to drink this summer?
I would recommend Gini la Frosca, an oak barrel Soave (nr 99099 – 159 kr), Leth Scheiben Grüner Veltliner (nr 90394 – 149 kr) and finally a red, Xavier Grenache Vielles Vignes (nr 2151 – 85 kr).
Le Bistro de Washof is closed in July but will open again in August with a new schedule, new themes and great tastings. Check their website for more info www.wasahof.se
