Dinner at Nya Carnegiebryggeriet

Micha Van Dinther
Posted October 30, 2014 in Food & Drink

Dinner at Nya Carnegiebryggeriet:

For the Love of Beer

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Intriguingly, the Brooklyn Brewery’s second-biggest market behind its native New York is not New Jersey or Atlantic City, but Sweden. Intriguing yes, but perhaps not very surprising, considering Stockholm’s current obsession with the borough. With such a large, established local fan base, there just was no way that the hipster brewery would ever turn down the chance to team up with Carlsberg Sweden to create a microbrewery a hop, skip and a jump away from Stockholm’s city centre, right by the water in Hammarby Sjöstad.

In March of this year the brewery, located in the listed building that is the former Luma factory, opened its taps for the world. The idea, as described on Brooklyn Brewery’s own website, was to create a brewer exchange program, where a team of Swedish brewers were to train in Brooklyn for a period, and vice versa. This exchange later led to the creation of five new brews exclusive to Nya Carnegiebryggeriet.

            After having spent a magical night out with friends living in New York last autumn, it was now my turn to usher them through the Stockholm nightlife on their recent visit to the Swedish capital. Although Stockholm is by no means anything like New York, I was hoping to be able to offer them an equally memorable night in the Swedish capital. And what better place to take my dear friends than to the city’s hottest new microbrewery? Nya Carnegiebryggeriet. A total of 8 000 barrels. A restaurant run by Tobias Nordahl and Billy White (previously at Matbaren and Fäviken) that – much like the prevailing international gastronomic trend – only pairs its food with beer (wine is completely banned from the property). Craft beers, with a special Swedish accent. Very worldly, yet local. Very now. Sounds great on paper, doesn’t it?

Luma Ljusslingan.

            Imagine my surprise when we arrive at the brewery to find that the entrance to the restaurant was through the loading dock. The bar inside was the only real give-away that we were actually in a public restaurant, as the dining room more resembled a school or office canteen. I’d be lying if I said my heart didn’t sink when I saw the restaurant’s uninspired decor.

            However, my first impression was improved upon when an alert, beaming young gentleman – the maître d’ – approached us to welcome us to the establishment. This first-class service continued throughout the night, as the staff were both generous with their time and knowledgeable about what they were serving. After a solid run-through of the beers available, we start out family-style with a selection of different appetizers. The kams (125 kronor) – a variant of the Swedish dish ‘palt’, made out of a three different milled grains – are airy, light pillow-shaped creations served with cheese and hazelnuts. The pickled mackerel with cucumber and horse radish (115 kronor) is served in small fresh bite-sized portions and the onion, lavaret roe and sour cream (105 kronor) is impeccable. A great start, accompanied by flawless beers with flavours that intertwine with our food.

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It gets slightly more puzzling when we get to the mains, as we sense a menu that sprawls in different directions. The flatfish (265 kronor) is the safest bet of the lot, served with caridean shrimp and fennel. The rooster (275 kronor) is a massive plate of food – much like an American portion, but without the possibility to bring leftovers home in a doggy bag. The two pieces of rooster meat, cooked using two different techniques, are accompanied by chanterelles and summer truffle. Again, the beers that accompany these dishes – the Amber and the Lumen in Tenebris – leave us more than content. As our meal draws to a close, we are served a delicious maple syrup sponge cake with vanilla ice cream (65 kronor) and a very intriguing malt custard tart (85 kronor), a dessert that is somehow reminiscent of a crème brulée in its texture, and with a hint of salted caramel in its flavour. It is made using residual products from the brewing process – an exceptional way of reusing produce and a food philosophy we hope to see more of in the future.

A few moments later, while crossing the channel that lies between Hammarby Sjöstad and Södermalm by ferry, I replay the evening in my mind. And although conversation has been vivid, the views stunning and the food and beers lovely, I can’t seem to get past the feeling that something significant was lacking. Perhaps it is time to rethink the importance of the restaurant’s ambiance and décor? Without it, Nya Carnegiebryggeriet’s overall dining experience will never be quite as great as it sets out to be.

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Ljusslingan 15

08 510 650 82

www.nyacarnegiebryggeriet.se

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