Compared with all the different cuisines making waves in the Western world over the past decade – Asian, Italian, Middle Eastern – the Austrian kitchen has been keeping something of a low profile. But lately we’ve seen signs of a possible shift in the offing – Bar Central on Södermalm has managed to make Central European food hip, and Krasnopolski on Regeringsgatan has made many foodies sing the praises of Polish food.

Moldau in Hornstull has been serving its Austrian specialties for years, but recently its name has been popping up more and more often among hip Stockholmers looking for a fuss-free, affordable dining experience.

Dinner at Moldau

Booking a table here requires an old-fashioned phone call; there is no website with a simple, anonymous booking service. With no sms confirmation we’re slightly unsure of the process actually having worked until we arrive, but sure enough, we’re soon escorted through the rustic, wooden interior and the thick smell of proper food to a small window table.

A quick look at the laminated menu reveals that Moldau’s forte lies in schnitzels. There are eight different kinds on offer, from the classic wienerschnitzel to the Swiss version filled with cheese and smoked ham and even two vegetarian ones made with zucchini and cheese.

The interior transports you to a village in the Austrian Alps. Here, you’re likely to encounter decorative items you’ve never seen before; lamps with two embracing ducks forming the foot, a bar with a beam complete with wooden roosters, a family of kitschy porcelain cats on the window sill and heavy, handmade, ornamented wooden furniture. A refreshing exception among the trendy eateries in town, and most definitely at home in the diverse Södermalm.

We start off by ordering a plate of garlic bread (25 kronor) and some Hungarian cucumber salad with sour cream (48 kronor), along with a pint of Hefe weissbier and a Radler from a beer list that features some nice German and Austrian brews. The bread is very heavy and oily; a lighter touch wouldn’t hurt, but the salad works nicely, even if it resembles a classic Swedish pressgurka.

When the mains arrive, we’re happy to have settled for the modest starters. The wienerschnitzel (235 kronor), served with your choice of potato salad – Czech or Austrian – is quite possibly the biggest we’ve ever seen. One portion of the Austrian bratwurst with sauerkraut and roasted potatoes (135 kronor), is enough to feed a small family.

And the taste? The schnitzel is thin as it should be, and the breading crispy. The Czech potato salad, with diced potatoes, carrots, peas, pickled cucumber and mustard mayonnaise, manages to be tasty and fresh.

The bratwurst won’t win any prizes – it is what it is, sausages with potatoes – but then again, the price isn’t astronomical either. Eager to save some room for deserts, we ask for a doggie bag to bring half of our mains home.

And as so often, the deserts make the day – we finish the meal with a simple, moist apfelstrudel (65 kronor) and a piece of classic sachertorte (68 kronor), both served with whipped cream – and decorated with a small Austrian flag on a toothpick.

It may have been an uneven evening, but on the whole we’re happy that someone is waving the Austrian flag on Södermalm.

Moldau restaurant in Stockholm is located on Bergsunds Strand 33, Hornstull.