Street Style: Orchard Street, NYC

Peter Steen-Christensen
Posted April 14, 2012 in More

Orchard St, NYC
“It’s about being accosted by the New York scene and hipsters, who are really not artists and are just pretending to be. They’re all about just being seen,” said Santigold by way of explanation of her breakthrough single Lower East Side Artistes.  It’s probably more a dig at certain people than at the Lower East Side itself, but the area has come in for some heavy criticism. Most of that is due to the rapid gentrification that the area, in common with many other urban areas, has gone through. Once renowned as a working-class area where immigrants were welcome, rising prices in the last few years have driven many people out.

Some of the old-style discount clothing shops remain but Orchard Street, and the rest of Manhattan’s Lower East Side, has changed face. Purists and the old guard scoff at the development, and it’s unfortunate that some people have a hard time paying rising rents, but on the other hand some locals don’t mind the good effects – like crime quickly going down and clean streets.

It still resides at the intersection between grit and chic, with an interesting mix of past and present. As many of the shop-owners on the street point out, the Lower East Side has for some time been a night-time destination for New York scenesters wanting to see and be seen.

On Orchard Street in particular, there are two other reasons to venture down south. A significant flurry of smaller independent shops has cropped up over the last four or five years, all with very strong identities of their own. And lately, these little shops have been getting company by a great influx of gallery spaces.

The street also sports an enormous presence of hybrid spaces. You have little shops within the confines of slightly bigger shops; there are shops-slash-bars, restaurant-slash-galleries and café-slash-boutiques. And regardless of whatever a space is by day, you can rest assured that by night they will have films, burlesque shows, album releases or exhibitions.

Say what you will about the transformation but the vibrancy of Orchard Street remains beyond question.

To get there
Well, you can fly with SAS from Arlanda Airport…

When on Manhattan, the easiest way would be to take the F-train, either to 2nd Avenue where you would have a three-four minute walk to Orchard from coming up at East Houston, or to Delancey, depending on the end of the street you’re aiming for.

Where to stay
There is only one choice on Orchard itself – The Blue Moon Hotel. A hotel aiming to echo the area’s past, it has been restored with original architecture and historic memorabilia.

Two other choices are available in the close vicinity, Thompson LES and Hotel on Rivington, two hotels that has been seen as a trademark of the area’s gentrification. The glass building housing the Hotel on Rivington might look awful to the purist, but I thoroughly enjoyed my visit a couple of years ago. It was hard not to – assigned a tenth-floor corner room with floor-to-ceiling windows, the main components of the view from both the bedroom and bathroom were the midtown skyline and the Empire State building.

This time, we stayed at the Thompson LES, part of the upmarket and sleekly-designed Thompson hotel chain. Located on nearby Allen St. a two-minute walk from Orchard, Thompson LES is a chic and trendy hotel with a depiction of Andy Warhol in their terrace swimming pool as its most distinguished design feature. And an extremely oversized bathtub is by far our favourite feature in the room.

Any Old Iron
149 Orchard Street, www.anyoldiron.net

You can come to Any Old Iron for two reasons – you can either play catch with Monkey, the little in-store Boston Terrier, or you can browse through an assortment of daring and edgy designwear imported from Britain.

Any Old Iron stock UK-specific brands rare for Manhattan such as Child of the Jago, made by Joe Corre, the son of British punk-music legend Malcom McLaren and Vivienne Westwood.

The shop is the brainchild of designer/stylist Andrew Clancy and arts-entrepreneur Christopher Melton. “We decided that menswear in New York wasn’t as advanced as in London, so we saw a gap in the market for a forward-thinking UK designer store. I would say being a music stylist for ten years has given me the direction to be a little bit more rock’n’roll than anything traditional. Moving forward it’s all about bringing new designers over to the US and keeping as many brands as exclusives as possible,” Andrew explains before telling us the criteria for clothes in the store.

“I pick pieces and designers that are a little more avant-garde or something with a twist. There’s no plain t-shirts in the store, there has to be some design element on there as well which would get you noticed. We don’t pick designers that blend in.”

And why Orchard?

“The block we picked had two menswear stores on it already and we saw potential for the street. We have been open two years now and the street has changed so much in that time. It’s good to be in an area known for exclusives and one-of-a-kinds. And being a destination street brings the cooler customers; we could be on Broadway and have great foot traffic but the wrong customer, here everyone that walks in has something about them. That desire to be different.

The Cast
71 Orchard Street, www.thecast.com

Probably one of the tiniest retail spaces in all of Manhattan, The Cast provides the leather for your inner rocker. Run by Chuck Guarino and his girlfriend Elisa Maldonado, this is a prime destination for anyone looking for old-school punk rock and metal fashion.

Started in 2004 in a basement on neighbouring Ludlow Street, The Cast has developed from being a small t-shirt line into a full rock ’n roll-influenced clothing brand for men and women.

“Shortly after Elisa came on board, we opened our shop at 71 Orchard Street and started doing clothes for women. We specialize in custom leather jackets which we make right here in the neighborhood. A customer can walk in, pick their leather, buttons, trimmings, get measured up, and they have their own custom jacket within two weeks.”

“We also make denim, t-shirts and leather hoodies, as well as carrying a well-curated stock of vintage clothing, boots and records (all original pressings) such as Iggy & The Stooges, Dead Boys, Ramones, The Cramps, Johnny Thunders, lots of early American punk rock”, Chuck says.

The couple live two blocks away and give high praise to Orchard Street.

“It’s a really fun street with lots to do. The Great Frog from London (originators of the skull ring) just moved in across the street from us five months ago. They complement The Cast very well. Apart from that Orchard Street has by far the best mix of restaurants, coffee shops, clothing boutiques and art galleries on the Lower East Side. Drink, eat, shop. You can totally make a day out of it doing all of the above.”

“It also has a very rich history with all the working class immigrants from back in the 1800’s. And awesome people and an overall great sense of community. Plus, it never gets crowded down here which I dig.”

dedegumo
188 Orchard Street, www.dedegumo.com

Don’t you just know that sporting a pocket watch would give anyone a clear edge in life? It doesn’t just tell you the time, it does so in unparallelled style. Based in Kyoto, Japan, dedegumo make several kinds of handmade watches, and their Orchard Street shop on the Lower East Side is their first international outlet.

”The creative spirit and feel of the neighbourhood, it had the right vibe”, explains Carrie Guest, their New Yorkian store manager, on why they chose Orchard Street. ”It’s filled with a lot of excitement and it’s where people bring their passion projects, making it a great home for dedegumo. As Orchard Street continues to develop, it will bring more and more people who are looking for unique products. We absolutely love being on Orchard Street and the LES in general. It’s a great neighborhood filled with great people that are doing what they love”, Carrie says.

In the tiny workshop the artists sit and fashion the most desirable little timekeeping accessories, merging ancient traditions from Japan’s cultural capital with modern design and fashion.

“Each artisan ‘owns’ their creation throughout the entire process – from the soldering of the buckle, to the cutting and finishing of the leather, to the intricate design work, it never leaves their hands. They have creative freedom to interpret the designs into their own making each watch a unique product.”

The Mastiha Shop
145 Orchard Street, www.mastihashopny.com

It was the world’s first chewing gum – hence the word ”masticate”. Since ancient times people on the Greek island of Chios has been using mastiha – the resin seeping from the mastic tree – both as a natural remedy and as a spice.

In modern times, scientific studies have shown it to have anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial as well as anti-oxidant qualities, and you can get it in soaps, as a cooking spice, skin-care products, bonbons and, well, you name it.

Two sisters, Artemis and Kalliopi Kohas, who have spent every summer of their lives on the very island, decided to spread the word and opened a space on Orchard Street representing the cooperative of mastiha growers of Chios, aptly naming it The Mastiha Shop.

”I have always been surrounded by mastiha through my whole life, and still use it every day in different shapes and forms,” says Artemis, who lives on a side street close by.

James Coviello
70 Orchard Street, www.jamescoviello.com

Former milliner James Coviello made his first hat when he was nineteen. It was intended for Grace Jones. ”Part of the reason for opening the store was to be able to present my collection in a world that was totally me. What I try to do was to create a cross between a general store and a women’s haberdashery”, James explains.

The world James Coviello created is a dreamy place with birds, flowers and art, plus of course his clothing creations, all designed in the studio behind the boutique.

”I have tried to create a space where people could forget the world outside and wrap themselves up in a warm, inviting and nostalgic place”.

The Dressing Room
75A Orchard Street, www.thedressingroomnyc.com

How’s this for an idea – the ground floor split in half, giving space both to local designers and a bar, plus a clothing exchange in the basement?

Launched in 2007 this little boutique/bar hybrid is typical for the area, with generous opening times – closing at either midnight or 2 AM depending on what day it is – and where happy hour extends to an eight-hour span. If the shopping experience is wearing you out you can park yourself in the bar with a cocktail while watching Pretty In Pink on the big screen above the stairs.

Alex Adame explains the thinking behind the hybrid model they embraced, thinking people were looking for something new, unexpected and stimulating.

“My original business partner and I had always dreamed of opening a store that also had a bar; a place where people could come to shop, but also relax with friends over a drink at the same time, and it would also be open late, providing a place for people to stop in on their way for a night out, and perhaps walk out of the store in a whole new outfit.”

“We wanted it to be more than just a retail store, but also a creative center for the community, a place where neighbors and friends could come together to share ideas, discover new talent, be stimulated by art, music, and fashion, bringing people from different backgrounds together. We love to do indie movie screenings, art exhibits, burlesque shows, and other types of events. We definitely intended for it to be a social place.”

The Dressing Room stocks unique, one-of-a-kind pieces, or very small-run items. The designers’ co-op features the work of local designers and artisans, many of whom are making their products by hand, or locally in small batches – when you buy something, you’re not likely to see someone else wearing the same thing.

By Robert James
72 Orchard Street, www.byrobertjames.com

”Timeless handsome classics with a modern twist,” is how Robert describes his clothing. “Gunslinger fashion,” someone else has opined.

Robert designs his lines in the studio behind the shop, inspired by music and historic men’s garments and themes. His stated aim is to make every man who wears his clothing feel as handsome as the clothes themselves, and I’d be a pretty good example of his success – two years have passed since I bought my first Robert James jacket and shirt.

Café Katja
79 Orchard Street, www.cafe-katja.com

One would think the Austrian cuisine could be a hard sell in NYC but when asking the people along the street, the one name always coming up as a favourite was Café Katja.

Andrew Chase and Erwin Schrottner explain that it was conceived first and foremost as a neighborhood bar/restaurant – the kind of place you could meet a friend for a glass of wine and a bite to eat, without thinking ahead too much and with no need to dress up.  ”Our Austrian identity was secondary to the ’culture’ of the restaurant, but of primary importance in the food and drinks we serve. We had cooked together in New York City restaurants for about eight years when the store-front that now houses Café Katja became available.

We knew we wanted to do a neighborhood bar with good wine and beer and when Erwin suggested we do Austrian food  it seemed like a natural choice! Lots of great wine and beer with tasty, unpretentious food. Accessible, inexpensive and democratic; Café Katja is a place where we want everyone to feel at home.”

And there seem to be few doubts that Orchard is their perfect location. ”We were just lucky to wind up on a block where a lot of small, creative businesses decided to settle. Part of us mourns the passing of many of the old Lower East Side merchants but we can’t help but be heartened by the quality of the new immigrants.

All around us, young Chinese families are raising their children and taking care of their parents. People are writing music, designing and crafting clothes, making tortillas. We suppose The Gap or some bank will show-up sometime, but we’ve got them outnumbered for now!”

Casa Mezcal
86 Orchard Street, www.casamezcalny.com

Mezcal, the brother of tequila, is the true local ecstasy of Mexico. Coming from the Maguey plant, the process of growing it takes years. Then the hearts of the plants are roasted, covered by hot rocks and baked for a couple of days to absorb all its rich flavours. Being the joint vision of well-known Mexican painter Guillermo Olguín and entrepreneur Ignacio Carballido, the Mezcaleria on the Lower East Side integrates art, traditional Mexican food and of course mezcal.

Another hybrid space, the facade of the three storey Casa explains it – ”Cine, Musica, Comida, Arte, Bar”. Yes all of that, and more. They display art and put on burlesque shows, live latin jazz and film nights along with the great Mexican food and low-lit bar vibe.

Anders Sjöstedt
Managing Director Hyper Island, New York

We moved in at Orchard Street during the springtime of 2010.

When choosing a location we thought about where people look like they do in our Hyper Island catalogue, and concluded that the Hyper Island brand would do well by starting on the Lower East Side. It had a young crowd and the edge we are used to. It’s an area with lots of good music, bars and restaurants. We were looking for a storefront, rather than an office building because our brand is quite streety.

This used to be a Jewish area and by talking to shop owners we got in touch with the right families. We spoke to the Friedmans, who introduced us to the Goldmans and so on. And eventually we had this fantastic building to start in. It used to be the studio that DJ Honda used for ten years.

We have since moved but Orchard Street is a super place, with great people and great restaurants. We used to hang out in the café on the corner, 88 Orchard. Good breakfast, cheap lunch, very laid-back – and a couple of times we had Gwyneth Paltrow at the next table.

We obviously also liked places like Café Katja and Robert James who used to be our neighbour but then moved in to our premises when we left. It’s good to know the place is in good hands.

Alex Adame
The Dressing Room

When we couldn’t find anything in our original first-choice neighborhood of the East Village, we gradually looked south until we came to the block we are currently on. In retrospect, I feel that this block has been the ideal spot for us, with its small-world, neighborly feeling amongst our fellow shop-owners, who are always willing to help each other out. It also has a perfect balance of retailers and restaurants, all independently owned, and with no one in competition with each other. The location provides a fair amount of tourist traffic from the nearby Tenement Museum, and foot traffic trickling down from the slightly busier blocks north of Delancey.

Orchard Street has the slightly punk, bohemian feel that we loved about the East Village, but mixed with a more creative, D-I-Y artists’ aesthetic. Cosmopolitan, edgy, avant-garde, without being too polished, like the West Village or the Meatpacking District. The block is alive with creative energy and people young and old, without being over-crowded and cacophonous on weekend nights like some nearby streets. Our area south of Delancey retains the feeling of being as-yet undiscovered.

Orchard Street has been a perfect location for The Dressing Room for many reasons, not least of which is that this area of the Lower East Side was the original garment district of Manhattan over a century ago, which speaks to our mission of providing a place for local designers and artists to create and showcase their work.

Gallery Scene
Over the last few years the Lower East Side has grown into a prime location for galleries. It’s not quite Chelsea, but neither does it want to be.

Orchard Street has become a highly-trafficked strip of emerging artists and dealers. ”It’s almost like there is a new gallery popping up every week”, Katie Archer at The Lower East Side Business Improvement District says. ”We now have over 80 galleries on the Lower East Side, and 21 of those are on Orchard”.

This is quite a transformation and one of the great things the new-look Lower East Side has brought with it.

We asked a couple of the galleries in this youthful art movement to share their views.

RJ Supa, Louis B James
“Our gallery – Louis B. James – opened in September of 2011. We are interested in emerging artists, mostly unknown so that we can grow with them and be instrumental in the growing of their careers. There is no specific type of art we are looking for, merely something that engages and surprises us. Furthermore we look for a reciprocal relationship with the artists and one that can be fun as we end up spending a lot of time and energy together. We’ve shown sculpture, painting, video, performance, drawings and installation and will continue to expand our vision as we grow and outreach further.

We were set on the Lower East Side but not specifically Orchard St. We looked at many spaces in this neighborhood but ultimately – through both coincidence and timing – settled on this location and we couldn’t be happier about it. We feel a certain sense of camaraderie with the other galleries on the street and have planned openings and events with them.

Again, I think the advantages are just a sense that everyone is working towards the same goal, which is to show great art and to create a vibrant scene away from Chelsea (although Chelsea sure has its advantages). It just feels like a different energy down here. Less rarified and more, well, energetic.

Orchard Street is great because it’s not just galleries – there are bars, restaurants, clothing shops and everything else. Again, it feels grittier and less Disney-fied than many other parts of the city. I think there is still an opportunity to do something really amazing down here, both in terms of art and the general sense of community.”

Amber Vilas, Rachel Uffner Gallery
“Rachel Uffner Gallery opened in September 2008 and the number of galleries in the neighborhood and on the street has significantly increased since then. The program consists primarily of peers and colleagues of Rachel Uffner herself: artists in their late 20s to mid 40s, many of whom have been included in significant exhibitions worldwide and largely artists who have had their first solo show with the gallery.

I believe the draw of the street is the “neighborhood” feel, it’s a more intimate art viewing experience than the vast warehouse spaces found in Chelsea. Most of the galleries have relatively small staffs and if you stop by you can have a direct conversation with the gallery owner. It’s a bit more relaxed and welcoming than a pristine white cube. As several of the buildings in the neighborhood were former tenements that means that many of the galleries exist in spaces that follow the shape of these buildings – with a modest square footage that runs from the front to the back making them much longer than wide “long and skinny.”

One unique aspect of the space that Rachel Uffner Gallery currently occupies is that it was the former home to Orchard, http://www.orchard47.org/, which ran for a set amount of time while the neighborhood was developing and then closed.”

Lesley Heller
“Lesley Heller Workspace highlights the work of emerging and mid career artists through a program of concurrent solo and curated exhibitions in two separate spaces within the gallery. The gallery acts as a forum for exploring the fundamental ideas, issues and concerns in contemporary art and as a launching point for these artists and their ideas. We seek to create a vibrant cross-generational dialogue about art and culture among collectors, curators, artists and critics. To facilitate the exploration of these ideas and to further engage the art viewing public the gallery hosts public openings, artist talks, poetry readings and other events.

We operate the curatorial program by inviting artists, independent curators and others to submit proposals.

I chose to move the gallery from the Upper East Side to the Lower East Side for several reasons:

I felt that the LES was an up and coming area for galleries, a ground floor space was more affordable, I liked the feel of the LES in general. It has galleries mixed with small shops and restaurants and a diverse community living in the area. I like the history of the area, as many immigrant populations settled on the LES when they first arrived in New York. There are still large Italian, Chinese and Orthodox Jewish populations here which are now mixed with young people moving to the neighborhood to start their own small businesses and families.

I chose to move to lower Orchard Street (below Delancey Street) in particular because there was a good feeling to the street and there were several other galleries here already. I believe that being near other smaller independent galleries is helpful as it creates a “destination” for collectors and curators and I really think the LES, and Orchard Street in particular, has become a destination for those interested in seeing what’s new and exciting in art as many of the galleries show emerging artists exclusively.”

SEARCH

NEWSLETTER

The key to the city. Straight to your inbox. Sign up for our newsletter.

Norges Casino

NEWSLETTER

The key to the city. Straight to your inbox. Sign up for our newsletter.

Skip to toolbar