The three-star restaurateurs Leif Mannerström and brothers Christer & Ulf Johansson run the classic Gothenburg restaurant, Kometen. They have maintained the 78-year-old Kometen atmosphere and authenticity and have created a kitchen where you can go to for some excellent home cooking. The main courses are all richly proportioned and satisfy both the gastronomically interested and the very hungry guest.
The lunch includes bread and “home churned” butter in two variants. The dishes are served by the somewhat harsh but knowledgeable wait staff. We pleasurably ate the meatballs with cream sauce, pickled cucumber, lingon berries and “fluffy” mashed potatoes – it was spectacular! We were also served black pudding with crispy, salty bacon, poached apples and lingon berries. The black pudding, the pork, the slightly tart apples and lingon berries fit perfectly.
For dinner, reserving a table is essential. I quickly noted that many of Kometen’s regulars are among Gothenburg’s artistic and cultural elite. With a larger group, we were advised to eat off the Kometen party menu. First is an excellent Skagen toast topped with tasty roe and a slice of lemon. The fresh prawns are in a tasty mayonnaise that makes for a delightful combination. What a start!
The main course is as west coast Swedish as a dish just might be. The boiled cod is complimented with chopped egg, shrimp, fresh horseradish, fresh potatoes and browned butter. Fishing at its best! It’s delightful how the fresh grated horseradish enhances the flavor! For dessert, we get a fresh lemon tart with luke-warm meringue. A perfect ending!
Three classics in the menu are the Wallen burger, the cow liver and Wiener schnitzel. The right spiced and cooked Wallen burger was accompanied by a thin cream sauce laced with calvados, and correctly paired with peas and mashed potatoes. The fried cow liver with gravy is topped with a tasty blend of capers, onions and bacon. Attention arouses for the large and flattened Wiener schnitzel that barely leaves any room on the plate for the fried potatoes. The exquisite taste confirms that a good Wiener Schnitzel is always made of veal!
Bruce Springsteen visited Kometen and ate the grilled fillet of beef with baked beef marrow, ox tail consommé and summer vegetables. His opinion was filled with nothing but complete satisfaction and joy. My own favorite dish is cooked, salted, pork shank with Mannerström ‘s strong mustard and turnip mash. Home cooking does not get any better than that!
The three-star restaurateurs have after the takeover revitalized home cooking where Kometen lives up to guests’ highest expectations in every dish. The restaurant is a very vital stop for some homemade classics that is the perfect compliment for a Gothenburg visit.
History
The Kometen was started in 1934 by Austrian Hans Breitneder. He was a musician and played in restaurants around Europe. On a visit to Gothenburg he found the restaurant’s premises and went into the restaurant world.
In 1938 joined Solvig Magnusson and became responsible for the business aspect of the restaurant. After Breitneder’s demise in 1962, it became Solvig who took over the business. Solvig drove the business forward until 2008, when she passed away at 91 years of age.
The current owners, restaurateurs star Leif Mannerström and brothers Christer & Ulf Johansson began their story with Kometen in the fall of 2009.
For more info visit their website, Restaurang Kometen.
Words by Paul Dahlgren
