Dinner at Yolo:
Foodie Carpe Diem
Alright, let’s get it over with. You know you want to. With a name such as Yolo, short for You Only Live Once, who can resist? So do insert that wise cracking joke here: _________.
There, now that that’s done, let’s get down to business. Because business is just what Yolo means. After shutting down his eponymously-named fine dining restaurant *Jonas* earlier this year, chef Jonas Lundgren has teamed up with Sarah Korduner Izosimov and set up Yolo in Djursholm, the northern suburb that also happens to be the wealthiest community in all of Sweden. The *You Only Live Once* ethos is about treating oneself to life’s little extras every now and then, and about seizing the day.
With a set menu of five courses for merely 590 kronor (alongside a regular á la carte), the seizing of this particular evening doesn’t feel like an incredibly hard thing to do, as I sit there enjoying the warm, spreading glow of my dry martini (134 kronor). At the table to my left, the vice-president of one of Sweden’s largest international corporations raises his glass of champagne and makes a toast to future endeavours in Dubai. Meanwhile, at the table to my right, the young news anchor of the public television channel, who very well might be bringing us the news of this exact venture a couple of days later, is at the centre of some sort of celebratory bash. Worlds that might not or perhaps never should have met, seem to collide at Yolo. And for some reason, no one seems to care a jot. With the insights I have gained through my short time at the restaurant, I can only imagine what my server, a discreet and attentive woman in her early 40s, might witness on a daily basis.
As the first amuse-bouche, a slow-cooked, super-tender cube of veal that is about to fall apart on its way up to my mouth, served with a spoonful of truffle potato purée, arrives, I take a good look around. If it weren’t for the other guests, the place could very well be the sitting room of an affluent uncle, with a large budget, an eclectic taste and a quirky sense of humour. A fireplace, a lounge area, book shelves filled with personal, handpicked items and a bar that surrounds the open kitchen all convey the feeling of a home – a personal space – cleverly designed by the Stockholm hospitality industry’s current design firm of choice, Koncept. No wonder people loosen their ties, get comfy and completely forget to watch their tongues.
Although I am slightly disappointed not to see Jonas Lundgren, the main reason for all the pre-chatter that surrounded the opening of Yolo (aside, maybe, from the restaurant’s much-debated name) behind any of the stoves, I quickly get over the fact when meeting his sidekicks. Lundgren, who functions more like a creative leader, has brought in chefs Jonas Lagerström and Danny Falkeman as well as sommelier Annika Gelhaar to fill out his shoes on a daily basis. What is so neat about a place like Yolo, that only seats 40, is that the chefs themselves take the time to personally bring out the food to their guests.
After the first starter, a cold smoked piece of salmon served in a bowl-shaped salad, topped with trout roe and served with a nice glass of Côte de Beaune (159 kronor), chef Falkeman returns for my empty plate and eagerly awaits any feedback I might have. Delicious, but with a bit of that watery, flavour-diluting sensation that iceberg lettuce so often produces. The second appetiser, Yolo’s signature beef tartar – which is cubed rather than ground or grated – comes with thin slices of crisp malt bread croutons, a vinegar dressing and dill. Superb in all its simplicity, and an appreciated step away from the slightly porridge-y tartars some restaurants keep bringing out. An unpretentious Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (64 kronor) forms a perfect union with the meat.
Next, a tender and generous piece of cod lies at the base for the first main course, and is accompanied by an egg salad, horseradish and Swedish beans. Chef Lagerström, whom I later find out is part of the Swedish national culinary team, points to a golden nugget carefully placed on top of the dish. “There you have it, the best part of the cod – the cheek”. Next, a couple of small chunks of lamb filet with black salsify, leek and garden cress are paired with a beautiful La Colina Valpolicella (135 kronor) that gives a deep satisfying sense of comfort food, although the plating is anything but rustic.
For dessert, Lagerström returns to proudly present a plate with Yolo’s reinterpretation of the classic Peach Melba. The stunning deconstruction is a light and fresh as an autumn breeze whirlwind of raspberries, white peaches and pistachios, expressed in various textures. And as if I weren’t convinced of Yolo’s greatness just yet, he once again shows up with the evening’s last surprise – a complimentary taste of another highlight – a milk chocolate, caramel and caramelized banana dessert (125 kronor). A smart move, it turns out, because now I’m not only convinced – I am also hooked.
Vendevägen 14
08 755 02 00
yolo.se
