When Urban Deli first flung open their doors in the former post office on the corner of Nytorget in the autumn of 2009, hip Stockholmers stampeded the grounds like a herd of buffalos that have gotten wind of a new water(ing) hole. For a while there, it was nearly impossible to score a dinner reservation at the hotspot, which combined both dining and grocery shopping in a fresh way.
Seven years later, Urban Deli has grown into a mini emporium with several outposts and side businesses. In 2014, Urban Deli MRKT was introduced on Sveavägen 44 – a spot that has evolved into a full-fledged Urban Deli that includes a restaurant, a café, a market hall, a rooftop terrace and a 106-room hotel. As often with expansions, the crisp concept seems to be losing a bit of its former edge. At least, that is the feeling we get when heading in for lunch and none of the servers seem to know which of the menus to hand us or where to seat us.
Seated next to the cold-radiating, glassed-in fridge with pieces of meat hanging from hooks, we scan the menu. Among Urban Deli classics such as the beef tartar and the fish stew, we decide on the homemade sausages (185 kronor) and a potato salad with smoked salmon (195 kronor).
Before long, our friendly server arrives with two huge plates of food; Urban Deli is not a place one leaves feeling peckish. The sausages, which are deliciously seasoned and taste of “real” meat, are served with smoked mayonnaise, crispy strips of deep-fried flatbread (very underrated, if you ask us) and a salad of rhubarb, apple, radishes, green onions and shrimp. A large piece of flavourful smoked salmon is placed on a substantial heap of dill sprinkled potatoes, sugar snaps and marinated cauliflower, which have been smothered in vinaigrette dressing and topped with grated Västerbotten cheese. As if that weren’t enough, a boiled egg is added to the dish.
Although the city’s hipper herds are choosing to graze at other newer establishment nowadays, much of Urban Deli’s initial edge has stayed intact. We appreciate the casual vibe, the laidback service and the well-cooked and well-tried dishes. Head here for foolproof meals and rest assured you’ll leave this place with a well-filled stomach.
Urban Deli Sveavägen
Sveavägen 44
08 425 500 20
urbandeli.org
Words: Micha van Dinther
