In Vino Päritas
A Francophilian library with good tastes
My craving for good Burgundy wine is sometimes insatiable. Through my circle of contacts and private import channels I have been able to get hold of some interesting bottles over time, but that is by no means enough to satisfy my curiosity and desire. Finance also plays its part; to drink good vintages from the more renowned Bourgogne houses is far pricier than what my wallet can handle, especially if one tries to uncork a bottle in the restaurants around town.
However, there’s one place I keep coming back to, a little hide-out in Gamla Stan, deep in an alley far from the touristy streaks, at Yxsmedgränd 12 and it goes under by that very name; The Burgundy. With a list of a hundred Burgundy wines at a reasonable price, you can get a wide selection by the glass. Under guidance of the professional staff, there’s always a delightful treat to discover. all within an affordable price range.
As I sneak into the dark and quiet, small Francofile Anglo-Saxon style library that makes out the forefront of cocktail bar Tweed, I meet up with head sommelier Totte Steneby and ask him to pour me a glass or two. I also have the opportunity to have a chat with the former Nordic sommelier champion and childhood movie star, who told me about the genesis of the idea.
“We decided to do a Burgundy-themed wine bar partly because, with so many wine bars around we wanted to be different, and partly because we love Burgundy. And even though it’s a pretty small region it’s one of, if not the, most complex in terms of appellations, styles and producers.”
As a young man, Totte took a break from his acting career and started working with food in 2002. NK Saluhall had just opened and he was hired to run the fish department. There, he got introduced to a couple of sommeliers who got him seriously turned on to wine, and the rest is history.
After spending a few years around town in various fine wine establishments, he found his home with Daniel Crespi in Gamla Stan. As I sniff away at my large bowl glass and sip on the first drops he pours me this evening, I ask him what his own personal wine favourites are.
“I’m trying to look beyond Burgundy as much as I can when I’m not at work.
There’s obviously a lot of Burgundies being tasted at work, so in order to keep up with the rest of the wine world I tend to look for other wines to drink. I’m very picky when it comes to Burgundies for my own consumption and feel that most are consumed way too young.”
Perhaps unsurprisingly, his favourite Burgundy vintage is not a recent one – and when it comes to wine from outside that region, his choice is even older.
“The best Burgundy ever has to be 1979 Henri Jayer Echezeaux or 1978 La Tache. The best non-Burgundy is probably 1959 Château Mouton-Rothschild.”
The first wine Totte pours this evening is a pleasant surprise, a 2008 Macon-Chardonnay, Clos de la Crochette from Comte Lafon. Amazingly full, yet crisp and strikingly fresh. This ability to produce this kind of surprise is why I come to this place, so I ask what’s in vogue now at The Burgundy.
“We see that more and more people are open to trying something new – in most cases that means any Burgundy! Even people who asks for Amarone or Shiraz are pleasantly surprised most of the time when tasting a subtle, elegant Burgundy here.”
With the popularity of wine growing considerably in recent years, I’m curious as to what this means for the market, and not just in the aisles of the Systembolaget.
“More sommeliers and consumers, I’m sure, will start to look for the real quality in wine more and look beyond the label and the certain styles that are now in fashion. Not to say that a style, grape or label that’s trendy can’t be good, but in the end it’s all about quality through the pleasure of drinking wine.”
The role of the sommelier in building the cellar for a wine bar such as the Burgundy is one that requires both time and money, but it’s a responsibility that Totte bears lightly on his shoulders.
“It doesn’t cost anything, really – if you’re a good sommelier you know what price is right and that means buying wine is not a cost but an investment that will give great return over time. Not only in terms of direct cash profit from mark-ups but a good and well-built wine list will attract more thirsty guests. Saying that, it should be mentioned that a good wine list doesn’t have to be as ample as ours.”
As he pours me the second wine, a red, the scent explodes from my glass. As I taste it, dusty stones and harsh liquorish splash around in my mouth and it gives me a pleasant tannin sting. At first I’m taken by surprise as my pallet tries to make this a Chinon Cab Franc. Slowly something else, extremely savoury, is finding it’s way through and I smile whilst reading the label – Domaine De L’Arlot Côte de Nuits Villages Clos du Chapeau 2009. This is true value for money and not the average wine you get at your local speakeasy. This is elegance and spirit, all at once.
Speaking of getting value for money and ignoring the financial constraints, would Totte direct people with differing levels of wine knowledge in different directions on his wine list?
“Yes. There’s some really esoteric and hard-to-find stuff on our list that an experienced wine drinker would like because it’s new, odd or just plain elusive in the market. Some of these are very expensive and we have bottles that don’t appear on any list. For the splurger without any real knowledge, interest or heart I’d rather suggest something else. Maybe equally priced, but easier to reach, both for them and for us who do the sourcing and buying.”
Having already won a number of prestigious sommelier titles at a young age, Totte declares himself content with his competitive career.
“I’m done competing for now, but I am trying to push young and new sommeliers into competing to make them push themselves. It’s easy to get lazy so to have some motivation and goals makes it more fun to read and continue to study.”
As part of a fairly successful team of sommeliers at the Djuret conglomerate, Totte describes his role.
“As of this fall I have the responsibility of all the buying and maintenance of our wine list at Djuret and The Burgundy, as well as the wine pairings, wine themes and staff training”.
Since I’m rolling with a true pro, I ask Totte if he has any simple tricks or tips he can share with our readers. His response is sharp and witty.
“Stop with red wine with cheese! Instead try a dry full-bodied white or an off-dry German Riesling. It’s a great compliment to almost all cheeses. And please – stop with the marmalades!”
Image: Pär Strömberg
