If you’re one of those people that usually avoids Stockholm’s Old Town for fear of getting caught among tourist masses chasing plastic viking helmets and handmade Dala horses, you might want to reconsider your stance. The Old Town is quickly making a name for itself as the city’s most vital culinary district. Place like 19 Glas, Pubologi and The Flying Elk have lead the way, and the latest ambitious restaurant to set up shop here is Cultur Bar, a wine and tapas bar with a focus on food and drinks from southern Europe.
Located on one of the neighbourhood’s coziest streets – especially on a dark December evening – Cultur Bar is great for a romantic dinner, but works just as well for an impromptu glass of wine and some quick snacks with friends.
The dining room is dimly lit and furnished in a sort of hip wine cellar manner, with oak tables, Moroccan tile floors and rows of wine bottles setting the scene. With only an hour and 15 minutes in our hands, we’re worried our dinner might become one of those stressful experiences where you first wait for 45 minutes, then eat for 15 and finally wait for the bill in frustration, but the lovely waiter says it won’t be a problem and calmly pours us two glasses of Deutz champagne, one of the wonderful wines the restaurant has on its carefully-chosen wine list.
After that, the tapas start arriving in the order the kitchen prepares them. The menu is mainly a mix of dishes from France, Spain and Italy; there’s a selection of snacks and cold dishes, hot dishes and a few meat dishes from the rotisserie. The extensive menu offers something for everyone. We try some still-warm white sour dough bread (35 kronor), a large, tangy ceviche (120 kronor), duck liver terrine (135 kronor), warm Valdeon blue cheese with gooseberry jam (95 kronor), a classic red beet carpaccio with fried goat cheese (75 kronor), a potato and eggs tortilla (55 kronor), gourmet hot dogs with two different types of sausages – salsiccia and merguez – (80 kronor) and fried oysters (55 kronor). The tortilla and the bread are perhaps a bit bland; aside from that, everything is delicious. There are no big culinary surprises; the chefs here are tracking familiar territory, but they do it well and the prices are definitely humane.
Do also remember to save some room for the desserts, which are definitely not to be overlooked. We suggest you skip the creme caramel and the ice cream and go straight for the sugary, warm churros, which you dip in either dulce de leche, chocolate or lemon sauce (95 kronor). They’re perfectly crisp on the outside and soft on the inside. Or try the heavenly, chocolatey dolcetto – a chocolate and espresso fondant with caramel sauce, served in an espresso cup. Yum!
Österlånggatan 34, culturbar.se
