Dinner @ Speceriet


Posted March 6, 2013 in Food & Drink

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Restaurant Gastrologik on Artillerigatan has been a culinary destination for Stockholm’s foodies ever since it opened in November 2011, and for good reason. Its concept of serving local and seasonal food, without menus but prepared to perfection and at a reasonable price, has given it both plenty of awards and a steady stream of customers. So it comes as no surprise that the restaurant’s smaller, simpler little sister Speceriet has already garnered a reputation as one of the city’s best newcomers.

For the potential customer, that has a downside: as no reservations can be made, your only hope of landing one of the 20 seats available is to show up exactly at 5 pm when the doors open, or to strategically turn up at around 6.30, when the first guests are finishing their dinners.

Having succeeded at that, you’re seated at one of the two communal tables, sharing bread baskets and rubbing shoulders with the other patrons. Describing a restaurant as intimate might be a cliché, but here, it literally is the case.

The concept is both similar and different to the big sister next door. Here, we do get menus (they’re changed depending on what the kitchen has for the day), and the food is much more casual. Founders and chefs Jacob Holmström and Anton Bjuhr wants Speceriet to be an informal experience, a place to drop in for a dish or two – but with the same attention given to first-class ingredients as at the main restaurant.

There’s a relatively small menu to choose from – 17 dishes all in all, ranging from reindeer heart kebab to rotisserie chicken – and the waiter informs us that all ingredients are Swedish. The wine list consists of two or three nice white and red wines, and an unusual selection of beer and soft drinks. There’s no sight of of the mainstream brews here; instead, customers are treated to brands from small Swedish and foreign breweries, as well as interesting non-alcoholic alternatives such as organic ginger beer and mandarin-orange soda.

And the food? We started off with roasted red beets with an egg yolk, parsley and watercress (125 kronor) and the tarte-flambé with potatoes, onion and raw beef (115 kronor). The former is a mild and pure experience, great as a lighter starter, while the tarte-flambé, a kind of Swedish pizza, was probably the most memorable of the evening’s dishes.

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The delicious combination of sweet, soft onions, salt and a crispy, wafer-thin crust is definitely something to come back for. It’s the perfect starter to share, too. As for the mains, we tried the fried cod with anchovy cream (205 kronor) – a version of fish and chips with the best fish in a thin, crispy batter and new, boiled potatoes – and the rotisserie chicken from Knäred with mayonnaise, salad and lemon (155 kronor). Tender and fresh in all its simplicity, with a nice spicy kick in the skin.

To finish off, we opted for a light, refreshing citrus salad with yoghurt and blood orange sorbet (65 kronor) and a smooth, home-made vanilla ice cream with milky chocolate sauce (65 kronor).

Speceriet’s strengths – aside for the top class food – are its informality and flexibility; you could come here to indulge in a longer, three-course dinner, or just drop in for a quick bite and a beer. And as time goes by and the pressure hopefully eases a bit, more and more Stockholmers will get a chance to do so, too.

Speceriet, Artillerigatan 14

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