Karlavägen 28 has long been synonymous with Italian eateries, and it’s a tradition we’re happy to see continue. In these same premises, Nicola Perrelli housed the exclusive Divino, and later WESC-founder Greger Hagelin and his wife Lotta ran the more downscale – but equally good – D.O.C. A little while ago, yet another gem called Un Poco popped up, and this new incarnation in a long line of Italian eateries in Stockholm invokes a Milanese family-owned trattoria. Which is certainly not a bad thing.
Opened under its new name last spring by The Swedish House Mafia DJs Sebastian Ingrosso (who happens to be a nephew of Nicola Perrelli) and Axel “Axwell” Hedfors, there is little that gives that fact away at Un Poco – it’s totally devoid of gold discs and DJ decks. Instead, gleaming hardwood floors, round tables, beautiful ceiling and classy chairs – which gives the interior a palpable character. But it’s really only when you get a taste of the atmosphere, the hospitality and perhaps most essentially, the service that Un Poco comes into its own.
Though very professional and knowledgeable, Stockholm’s restaurants are not exactly known for their warm and wonderful welcome, but Un Poco breaks the mould with a personal touch and a level of attention for every guest that makes dining here a pleasure. If the secret to a great waiter is that they should be like a friendly ghost (you can feel their presence but you don´t really notice them), then this place is haunted in the best possible sense.
The menu follows a classic Italian approach: antipasti (appetizers), primi (pasta and risotto), secondi (main courses). The latter can be ordered with a selection of contorni (side dishes) as tomato salad, truffle fries or tossed in butter spinach.
The newly-baked bread comes with whipped butter with truffle and lemon. For appetizer we ordered beef tartare with porcini mushrooms, capers and crispy onions (155 SEK) and blackened tuna with jalapeno, yozo and a truffle vinigrette (145 SEK). It was fairy-tale stuff, perfectly cooked and presented, and bursting with taste.
When moving on to the mains, it´s great that they adapt the portion size and price after the different dishes. We had the risotto with artichoke pancetta (175 SEK) and truffles which was really nice, if a bit on the salty side .My companion and I also thought that the artichoke could have been a bit more tender in its texture, but all in all we agreed that the risotto was well-executed. We also tried out the cod with Jerusalem artichoke and baked onions (285SEK) and aside from being very tasty, the cod was huge so you get a lot of fish for your money.
The menus is both varied and interesting, from the simple side-dishes to the less-traditional desserts. Generous use of truffle oil abounds in the early courses, and alongside the more traditional tiramisu and sorbetto, you can order Oreo cookies with a twist from the dessert menu – not exactly Italian, but definitely worth a punt..
The aforementioned staff aren’t just friendly, helpful and welcoming too – they are also very knowledgeable when it comes to the restaurant’s well-stocked wine collection.
There are plenty of Italian restaurants in Stockholm that are perfectly capable of recreating an enticing Italian menu, but few can manage the authentic, warm atmosphere that makes Un Poco such a welcome addition to the city’s trattoria selection.
Un Poco – A little italian gem!
Tel: 08-611 02 69
